Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 23, 2026

Rocks on the Bank

 I've fished every river mile of the Connecticut River from the Massachusetts border to the mouth at this point in my career, much of it extensively. Over the years I've taken note of how much of the bank structure, especially from Hartford to Haddam, consists of what would be considered non-native rock. Basically, non-native rock is any stone that originated elsewhere and was brought in. That can occur through natural alluvial or glacial processes but I'm specifically referring to quarries stone here, because there is a lot of it along the Connecticut. Being the artery of commerce, stone quarried nearby was often moved using the river. Some stone was also used to build landings and shore up banks. I'm more interested- at least in this context -in the history and origins of this stone than the impacts of it in an ecological sense. Of course putting rock along the edges of a stretch of river that flows otherwise through clay, sand, and gravel certainly does have consequences. I'm just a nerd here to talk about the history and geology of quarried stone in Central Connecticut because I think it's cool. 

The vicinity of the Connecticut River, especially around halfway down it's journey through Connecticut, just so happens to be through some of the most exploited geology in the entire state. A map of Bedrock Mines and Quarries of Connecticut, compiled by Robert J. Altamura and published by the Connecticut Geological and Natural History Survey in 1987, shows just how densely clustered quarries and mines are in the area of South Glastonbury, Portland, Middletown, and Haddam. This is owed to a clash of different geologic formations. The Eastern Border Fault divides sedimentary sandstones to the west from metamorphic formations to the east along the Bronson Hill Anticlinorium. This metamorphic rock- including the Collins Hill Formation, Glastonbury Gneisses, and the Middletown Formation -is intruded by numerous pegmatites. Pegmatite is a coarsely-grained granite formed by intruding magma that cools slowly underground. It can be rich in feldspar, mica, quartz, and beryl, all of which have been historically very important in industry. Feldspar can be used as flux in ceramics and glass making. Connecticut was the chief producer of feldspar in the country around 1908. Quartz is also used in glass making as well as timepieces, and beryllium can be used in electronics and aerospace technologies. The heyday of these pegmatite quarries has long since passed, but they dot the wooded landscape not far from the Connecticut River.  Some of this rock was moved via the Connecticut River, and some of it was left behind often as parts of the landings scattered along the banks. The discerning eye may even be able to parse which quarries this pegmatite came from simply by it's makeup. A minority of these pegmatites have lithium rich zones, denoted by the presence of minerals like cleavelandite, lepidolite, and elbaite. Bits of purple lepidolite and sugary white cleavelandite I found along the river bank one day, along with the proximity to the quarry itself, suggested I was likely walking on stone that had come from the Strickland Quarry or Schoonmaker Mine on Collins Hill. These piles of pegmatite are scattered about, mostly on the east banks with some on the west, from Glastonbury down to Haddam Neck. 


On other portions of the river , stone has been used in an attempt to bend the free spirit of her flow to our human whims. Where the float plain is broad and built up, as around Hartford, it is inconvenient to us how much the river really wants to wander, and how quickly in can do so. Here, the substrate has very little natural stone at all. It's all silt, clay, sand, and gravel deposits which the river can move about as it meanders. To stop such nonsense, we again took stone from somewhere else. One of the fairly common retaining walls I see in the are are ones constructed of brownstone. Most quarried in Portland, Connecticut, the brownstone is historically important, contributing to architecture in New York, Boston, Chicago, Washington, and other cities. The river was the artery this stone flowed from, but the stone is also now a sort of plaque that doesn't let the river do what it naturally should. 

The brownstone quarries in Portland operated fin one capacity or another from 1690 until the 1938 Hurricane flooded the open pits. Aside from providing the beautiful dark red-brown sandstone that you can still see in countless structures, the pits exposed the fingerprints of the past... very literally. The Portland formation, which as a whole is exposed in a number of locations in Central Connecticut and Massachusetts, contains occurrences of fossilized dinosaur footprints. Some of these were encountered and preserved in the Portland Quarries, many now on display at Wesleyan University. When you trod on Portland formation brownstone along the banks of the Connecticut River, you are stepping- at least sometimes -on the same layers of substrate that massive reptiles once walked through, albeit a little bit baked and morphed and millions of years older. If that doesn't give you a sense of awe, you're playing this whole game wrong. 


Newer to the river basin is what we colloquially call traprock. Geologically this can be diabase or basalt, what I see most along the Connecticut River is more commonly basalt and is a more recent fill compared to the stone I've discussed already, some of it visibly fresh compared to the brownstone and granite pegmatite. The history of quarrying traprock also leans toward the present, comparatively, though some operations in this state do date back into the 1800's. Basalt is still a very heavily favored aggregate. Hard, fine grained, and fracturing into angular, sharp stones, it makes idea railroad beds, raid grades, asphalt, and as fill. As opposed to rounded stone, a hard and angular stone pile holds it's shape far longer. These characteristics are a result of the stone's chemical structure. Basalt is formed by the rapid cooling of iron and magnesium rich lava. That quick cooling means the crystals are small. The minerals that make it up- plagioclase, pyroxene, and olivine, are similarly hard. Unlike granite pegmatite, whose crystals are large and of widely varying hardness and often breaks along the edges of individual crystals, basalt has far less defined edges along which to cleave. The exception is columnar basalt which breaks along fissures formed while the magma cooled, but even within the individual columns any further fractures are going to be irregular. Basalt quarried in Connecticut has kept a lot of commerce and travel from going tits up throughout the years. The same properties make for a bank fill that won't wash out easily. These, in my opinion, are the ugliest man made rock piles along the river. I am not a fan of them and will dwell on them no longer. Instead, here is an image of basalt in it's natural habitat to end this little journey through the geologic history of rocks that do now but didn't always adorn the banks of Connecticut's namesake river. 




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Tuesday, February 10, 2026

The Fight for Conservation

 That's the title of one of Gifford Pinchot's publications. I'd call it a booklet- it's a very short and easy read -and I recommend it not just to any outdoorsman but to any American, because it lays bricks for the foundation of how resource and land management is meant to work in this country. The understanding of that is paramount to being an informed citizen. Gifford Pinchot was a pivotal figure of the conservation movement, one of the forefathers of the US Forest Service, a Pennsylvania Governor, as well as a Connecticut Yankee and Yale graduate. Down low on the Farmington River, in Simsbury where Pinchot was born, a big old Sycamore takes his name. 

The conservation movement evokes certain images for many individuals... perhaps you picture vegan hippies tying themselves to trees in a haze of cannabis smoke. That might make reading The Fight for Conservation a confusing experience for you. The writings from one of the key individuals who started the conservation movement focus more on economics, national security, and prosperity than on the sort of fru-fru peace love and harmony ideas often ascribed to that movement today. That isn't because Pinchot didn't care for or appreciate nature in a spiritual sense, far from it. He just understood that a country's prosperity is directly tied to how it preserves, conserves, and develops its resources. The Forest Service's roll goes miles beyond a sort of park ranger perspective, to that of fireman, mine geologist, farmer, and more, and the role of federal land isn't just to provide a place to recreate- see Land of Many Uses -but to safeguard resources for development. "The first principle of conservation is development, the use of the natural resources now existing on this continent for the benefit of the people who live here now."¹

How, then, would Gifford Pinchot feel about the possibility of a Chilean-owned mine in the watershed of the famed Boundary Waters in Minnesota, the countries most visited wilderness area. I'd make the case that Pinchot wouldn't support the development of this particular resource at this particular time in this particular way. Mining was changing in Pinchot's day, with the "mom and pop shop" mining claims on federal lands beginning to cede to larger companies. A lot of federal land mining that fell under Pinchot's supervision was quite small scale, and that does still exist. Small scale gem, mineral specimen, and precious metal mining still exists and some individuals do make their livelihood off of that. That didn't really describe Minnesota's iron mining. In 1910, when The Fight for Conservation was published, development of the Mesabi Range iron deposits was in its early stages. They were never really small operations. Many started as underground workings but have all transitioned into open pit mines by the present day, leaving a broken scar visible from space as a red-brown blemishes stretching northeastward from Grand Rapids to Babbit. These mines are or were operated by a variety of companies, some US based in Cincinnati and Pittsburg, others foreign owned. Foreign ownership leads to big questions for "the benefit of people who live here now". Mining has been a fundamentally key part of the prosperity of Minnesotans, but how much of the prosperity will the area feel with another foreign owned mine and ever progressing automation? I don't actually know the answer to that, but I have a hunch... 

Furthermore, will this mine poison the boundary waters? 

Maybe. It certainly could. It isn't the first mine in the watershed, either. Dunka River, just to the south and flowing into the same lake the proposed mine would abut, skirts between the open pits of two other mines. Perhaps it's less egregious than the immediate abutment of the proposed mining underground project to Birch Lake. And perhaps the byproducts of this copper, nickel, cobalt focused mining are worse than those of the taconite mines .The company that would run this mine has a history of failing to comply with water management regulations, and the Forest Service under the Biden administration put out an environmental assessment stating both environmental and economic concerns for the region. A 20 year mining ban was placed, what we're seeing now is the attempt to undue that. It stands to reason that Pinchot might fall in favor of the continued ban, as the boundary waters themselves represent a resource already developed and an existing driver of economic benefit to the region. This mine certainly could threaten that. In many regions, outdoor recreation is now an outstanding source of employment and economic growth. In 2024, both Ag, Forestry, Fishing & Hunting and Arts, Recreation, Accommodation & Food Service contributed more to Minnesota's GDP than mining.³ That suggests the resource more worth developing and in turn preserving is the Boundary Waters, rather than this individual, depletable ore deposit. 

 I'd think Gifford Pinchot's head would spin if he saw what resource management were like today, with massive percentages of US mining falling under foreign corporations, fire management fundamentally flawed, water power and canal infrastructure falling out if favor, and scientists understanding of land and resource management completely repaved and resurfaced from his time. It would probably be a confusing world to him. Perhaps disappointing, even. 

That's just speculative. I have no idea what he would thing. If you don't want to see this new mine in watershed of the Boundary Waters, though- and yes, I know I'm extremely late and the senate vote could happen any moment - here's an avenue for comment: https://www.backcountryhunters.org/get-involved/take-action


1. Pinchot, Gifford. The Fight for Conservation. New York, Doubleday, Page & company, 1910. pp. 18-19

2. Staff. (2022, November 8). Agencies announce critical next step for the Boundary Waters. Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership. https://www.trcp.org/2022/06/24/agencies-announce-next-critical-step-banning-sulfide-ore-copper-mining-near-boundary-waters/

3. What is the gross domestic product (GDP) in Minnesota?. USAFacts. (n.d.). https://usafacts.org/answers/what-is-the-gross-domestic-product-gdp/state/minnesota/

Friday, January 16, 2026

Bomb Cyclone on Lake Ontario

"Explosive cyclogenesis (also referred to as a weather bomb, meteorological bomb, explosive development, bomb cyclone, or bombogenesis) is the rapid deepening of an extratropical cyclonic low-pressure area. The change in pressure needed to classify something as explosive cyclogenesis is latitude dependent. For example, at 60° latitude, explosive cyclogenesis occurs if the central pressure decreases by 24 millibars (0.71 inHg) or more in 24 hours. This is a predominantly maritime, winter event, but also occurs in continental settings.

-Wikipedia contributors. (2025, December 30). Explosive cyclogenesis. In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 03:47, January 13, 2026, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Explosive_cyclogenesis&oldid=1330226435

On December 29th, 2025, I had a morning doctor's appointment. I felt a little rushed- getting there, getting it done, getting the heck out of there -because the atmosphere was doing something very interesting in the area of the Great Lakes. Models showed a rapidly deepening closed low sweeping a gnarly jet across the whole region, bringing intense winds to the surface with the potential to create massive waves in the places with the most fetch. It was a continental bomb cyclone, a low almost reaching hurricane levels of intensity. Although I'm a warm season convective weather chaser at my core, the winter is long and I live in the northeast. The gaps between towering, rotating supercells are extremely long for me. I've gotta take what I can get. When mother nature decides to put on a show, I can't help but be compelled to be there for it. It was especially appealing after visiting the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Experiencing a taste of the sort of event that was responsible for such dirty work seemed fitting. Forecasts even suggested that conditions on parts of Lake Superior could be worse that the night the Edmund Fitzgerald sank, and that storm didn't quite make the pressure drop grade to qualify for bombogenesis. The Dec. 28-29 storm performed a 20mb pressure drop in 24 hours. 


National Weather Service, Twin Cities, MN. December 28 2025 Winter Storm and Blizzard Conditions. https://www.weather.gov/mpx/Dec28Blizzard 

The most intense conditions would occur on Superior, and there was no shot at getting that far. Lake Erie would certainly see some exceptional waves and wind and probably a big seiche; where the wind pushes enough water that it significantly drops the water level at the west end of the lake and creates flooding on the East end, at least in westerly wind. My morning doctor's appointment negated getting to Lake Erie in a timely fashion. Ontario it was, with time to spare and familiarity both playing rolls in my decision making. I knew the shoreline of Oswego and Jefferson Counties would be getting battered, and the road network there is a familiar one to a tributary fisherman. I initially set sights on Oswego, then Sandy Pond as we got closer. We passed through some of the monster cyclone's dirty work on the way, where ice accretion was bringing down tree limbs and slippery spots were causing accidents. Clouds broke before we arrived at the lake, but the blue sky with puffy white clouds scudding quickly overhead was really evidence of the incoming high winds. Soon, gusts in Ellisburg would exceed 50mph, and the wind hitting the exposed lake shore would be even more intense as the pressure gradient on the backside of the cyclone approached. The temperature was also falling quickly. Soon, spending ten minutes outside the car would become pretty hard to tolerate. 



The lakes are impressive- a little uncanny even, if you're used to the ocean -but I'd never seen them in big weather. The way the waves broke along the beaches in northern Oswego County was a little different from anything I can recall seeing. They'd break way out, more than a mile off the beach, then come come rolling in as stacked whitewater. I'm sure this is owing to the very slight depth gradient on that part of the lake shore. Though it didn't make for the most impressive shore break size-wise, it was very loud. The wind was more impressive, blowing sand and whipping trees about, even taking down fences in the parks. 



To the north, at Henderson Shores, cliffs set a more dramatic stage for breaking waves being funneled between Stoney Island and the mainland. Far out, white caps broke and were bowled over by the strong winds, sending plumes of spray like smoke swirling across the waters. it would be quite a scary time to be out there in a vessel. There's also some sick part of me that wants to know what that experience is like. Standing on those cliffs is such  different vantage point, above it all and completely safe. Being out there in it, immersed in the chaos with no immediate escape... that's a whole other thing entirely. 


To my knowledge no boats sank during the 28th-29th storm, and even the large freighters find safe port nowadays when these conditions do arriver. We've advanced forecasting dramatically since the 1970's and a storm like this is something meteorologists today have a good handle on well in advance. That saves a lot of mariners and has made the Great Lakes a fair bit less deadly than they once were.  It's no less impressive to experience nature's intensity on the shoreline as these storms will rear their ugly heads for centuries to come. As it got later, it was just getting harder and harder to be outside as conditions continued to deteriorate. Driving perpendicular to the winds I had to work to keep the car on track. We headed home, satisfied with the experience. 

Thank you to my Patrons; Erin, David, John, Elizabeth, Brandon, Christopher, Shawn, Mike, Sara, Franky, Geof, Luke, Noah, Justin, Sean, Tom, Mark, Jake, Chris, Oliver, oddity on Display, Sammy, and Cris & Jennifer, Hunter, Gordon, Thomas, Trevor, Eric, Evan, Javier, Ryan, Dar, Eric, Truman, and Collin for making Connecticut Fly Angler possible. If you want to support this blog, look for the Patreon link at the top of the right side-bar in web version.

Tuesday, December 2, 2025

The Shaky Future of American Beech

 There was a smallish American beech in the woods not far from the second home my family lived at in Connecticut. It was not a loner, as in many places in the Southern New England Forest, beech were a fairly prominent tree there. This one, though, stood atop a rise that marked sort of a second, smaller peak of the hill we lived on. Their were two houses up there mostly surrounded by woods, making it a pretty good place for an outdoor-inclined child to do a hefty chunk of their growing up. That little beech on the second peak was big enough and just branched well enough to be a great climbing tree, and I hasten to make a guess at how many hours I spent off the ground in that tree. When the canopy was off it made an even better viewing position from the top of that already prominent rise, looking down a fairly significant and steep hill. I watched deer, foxes, coyotes, and even- only once -a fisher from that tree. I haven't seen it in a long while though, and I wonder how it's doing. I wonder because American beech in Connecticut are, on the whole, not doing so hot. 

In 2012, a biologist named John Pogacnik working for Lake Metroparks discovered sick beech trees in a grove overlooking the Grand River in Lake County, Ohio. At the time, there wasn't a clear cut answer as to what was damaging these trees, but they were beginning to get sickly ,striated leaves, and it was evident that something was quite wrong. The disease would become known simply as beech leaf disease, and in time was tied to a nematode worm species: Litylenchus crenatae mccannii. Whether the nematode alone is responsible or if some bacteria is a nasty collaborator is yet unknown, but what is known is that the disease is more than just an inconvenience. BLD is proving to be especially deadly to younger beeches, which when infected seem destined to die in about five years time. BLD has since spread to 13 US states and Ontario, with detection in Connecticut occurring in 2019. It has since spread to every county, and it is rare now- in my experience, at least -to see a beech not affected by the disease. 


Fagus grandifolia is a fixture of the eastern forests; "large-leafed beech" in Latin. You've probably seen one that someone scratched their name into. I don't at all condone this, it's a rude thing to do to a tree. This is done to a lot with beech because they do make a notably good canvas for such things, with their smooth, even, grey bark. American beech have lovely, dark green, almond shaped leaves with parallel side veins that each end in a slight point. Beeches are also notable for marcescence, or keeping some or all of their leaves through winter until they bud out. These dry, dull yellow leaves add color to an otherwise grey and white winter landscape in the northeast. They also whisper and shake in a breeze, and to me, a New England forest would feel very different were it not for that sound as a winter storm closes in and the wind kicks up. It would be really hard, as a whole, to picture these woods without beech. We've been through the loss of iconic trees in the East before, though... perhaps none more iconic than the American chestnut. 

I walked a scrubby low area between hilltops in the Taconics not long ago with my friend Bruce, and we passed hundreds of little saplings with long, dark green, spike-edged leaves. Most of these were less than an inch in diameter and surrounded decrepit looking, dead small trees. These are what's left of a species now widely considered to be functionally extinct, stump sprouts from a still living root system trying desperately to regain a hold. It can't though, not yet at least. And that's a shame, because these were once a dominant and massive tree of the Eastern forests. Many old houses in New England have American chestnut in their construction, as it was a highly favored lumber for it's rot resistance and strength. Old film photographs depicting whole families standing in front of massive Castanea dentata harken to modern day photos of the redwoods or sequoia, and few trees standing today East of the Mississippi come close to the magnitude of those monsters, especially deciduous trees. At the moment the idea of seeing a truly giant American chestnut is a dream, and that's all because of a fungus imported by accident and rapidly spread through a population of trees that lacked immunity to it. There are folks trying to realize that dream, even though for many the understanding that this won't occur in time for them to actually see it is abundantly clear.

 Jack Swatt and Dr. David Bingham explained to me how I could microwave-roast a chestnut as we stood at the base of 10-29, the tallest, fullest, best looking tree on Dr. Bingham's property in central CT. "Take a very sharp knife, put it on the flat side so it doesn't roll, punch it in so it makes a little x. As it's cooking the steam bursts the rest", Dr. Bingham suggested. In my hand was a nut produced by tree 10-29. It was a beautiful, lustrous thing with that stereotypical deep color. This tree and the others in Bingham's orchard are part of the American Chestnut Foundation's backcrossing program. The idea is to produce a tree that is as close to American chestnut as possible, but carries blight resistance from genetic crossing with Chinese chestnut. The chestnut in my hand wasn't quite as small as that of a pure American, and the leaves on the tree weren't as large or as toothed as as pure American. But it sure wasn't like a pure Chinese chestnut either, and though the cankers from blight were visible in various spots on the tree's trunk it was still a beauty. Bingham referred to and gestured at traits of the tree I was yet unfamiliar with. "It certainly has the very typical American bark, and it's branching like an American tree".  Backcrossing, unlike pure hybridization, is intended to isolate one desired trait from a donor parent while crossing the offspring with a recurrent parent whose whole genetic background is preferable. In this case, preferred background is that of the American chestnut- traits like nut size, leaf size and shape, bark, branching, and growth -nd the preferred trait from the donor parent is the blight resistance of the Chinese chestnut. The end result won't exactly be the same as what was lost to blight, but the goal is to get the closest tree possible. That's a common theme in species conservation.... something as close as possible, genetically and physiologically, is a lot better than nothing. 

The first nuts David Bingham planted in his orchard came from one Connecticut tree. "The mother tree" was an American chestnut he found while clearing a hilltop on a family property. It was just a sprout then, but Bingham cared for that tree by packing mud onto blighted spots and wrapping it with plastic. The native fungi and viruses in the mud help the tree fight the Cryphonectria parasitica, the blight fungus. If not taken care of, or if the tree shows no resistance, the fungus essentially girdles the trunk of the tree, killing it. The root system, unaffected by the fungus, can survive long after the main trunk dies It will keep putting up stump sprouts for decades. It was these that I saw on that hike in the Taconics. Under David's care, though, this sprout made it much longer than most. "It got big enough and started flowering," he told me. When it first produced nuts they were all flat, they were infertile nuts." If there are no other flowering chestnuts around to pollinate with, such is the result. The next year, with help from American Chestnut Foundation, the tree was pollinated. "We got about a hundred nuts off of it". So started the orchard; and that mother tree is still standing today too under Bingham's watchful eye. Rows of chestnut trees from the Mother Tree and various hybrid parents were planted in rows. They were then "inoculated", using bores to place a core with a virulent strain of blight in each tree. The trees that handled it best were kept, those that didn't were culled. It was those that made the grade that stood this day, here and there in what otherwise looked like a meadow. Bingham kept things to what the untrained I may think is a unruly state, but a naturalist sees as vital habitat for birds and pollinators. 

The fungus that causes chestnut blight is Cryphonectria parasitica. Under a loop it isn't impressive... the fruiting bodies are tiny and dull orange. The impact of that fungus, though, was staggering. Most sources place arrival from Asia in the late 1800's. Ground zero was the Bronx Zoological Park. By the 1940's the blight spread to the entire population and in half a century a tree that made up about a quarter of the Eastern forests and a very high percentage of the mast crop (nuts) became a ghost of itself... still existing, sort of, but mostly as a reminder rather than a functioning species. Because of it's lumber value, salvage logging took place and may have worsened the odds for the iconic species. Now it's up to a handful of dedicated individuals to try to bring it back. Like many conservationists, Jack Swatt and David Bingham are driven by an appreciation for nature and for a species, using there time voluntarily to try to improve their world. Swatt learned about the American chestnut during his college years, joined the American Chestnut Foundation later on but wasn't very active right away. He'd been very active with the fire department, but after developing psoriatic arthritis needed to find another way to devote time. "So I was out hiking in Naugatuck State Forest and found an American chestnut that had burrs at the top of it," he told me as he donned gloves to protect his hands from the spikes. "I started doing more volunteer work and monitoring those trees because I had more time on my hands, and I became more and more involved". Many of use who find a species or habitat in peril quickly find ourselves entrained in the mission to restore, protect, or preserve them. Swatt described it as "infectious" and I couldn't agree more. 

"Burrs go right through every glove I try", he said, "so I wrap them with duct tape. They're really pretty bad!" I'd never seen chestnut burrs before, but Swatt told me there are more trees that produce them than even he had realized. In places where lots of cutting has been done- he described a spot where cutting was performed to manage for Ne England cottontail -the sprouts can grow better, and in a five to ten year period before succumbing to blight they get a chance to flower and produce nuts. They emphasized that finding a tree with a lot of burrs is often a sign it isn't doing well and may be close to the end. "When you're finding them with burrs it's often because they've been weakened and they know that they're on the way out" Bingham said, and Swatt added "If they're growing really healthy, they put their energy into growing." The interesting thing with trees, though, is that growing takes a while. 10 years is long as is, and that's a fraction of the time it will take to know if any of this is working. Neither of these men will be around long enough to see the fully realized result of their hours of labor. David Bingham is 85 years old, and already has plans for the orchard he knows will outlive him. The property will go to a land trust to continue its goals. "I'm glad I didn't know how long this would take when I started" he told me. "I certainly thought it was going to be solved in my lifetime." At one point, he gestured at me, "You're young enough to maybe find a solution." And maybe that's true, but it wouldn't be without standing on the backs of people that came earlier who were willing to try to solve a problem they couldn't be around long enough to see through. Restoring a forest takes more than a lifetime. There's something deeply admirable about people willing to work toward a goal that far out. 


 Alex Amendola's office could be described as eclectic, I suppose, but if you are paying enough attention you'd see an underlying theme runs through the scattered odds and ends: two Polyphemus moths pinned to a propped up log, a copperhead skin shed, various mineral specimens, old bottles lined on a shelf, and a few bonsai, along with maps, old signs, and posters pertaining to ecology and forestry. These were all evidences of a life spent tromping in the woodlands of southern New England. Amendola is a forester for CT DEEP, and he certainly loves trees... though his path to his current occupation was a bit circuitous. "I wanted to be a a marine biologist, but they gave us a test for what job would suit you best. My number one result was forest ecologist, and I was like 'I hate trees, why would I ever want to do that'". Amendola was going to The Sound School, a New Haven based maritime based high school. He went from conservation law to environmental law in college, then found his way to that test result and ended in forest ecology. Now much of his life revolves around trees and things that pertain to them. He's the president of the Bonsai Society of Greater New Haven. Managing the forests of south Central Connecticut provides his income. I ended up in his office because my brother worked with Alex as a seasonal, and learned through him that forestry is a lot more than just marking trees. Radio telemetry with spotted turtles, for example... "I was astonished by how many thousands of feet some of them would put on in one night or two nights. I did the calculations to someone of my body weight and it was like 75 miles in a day!" If I was looking to get a deeper perspective on what beech leaf disease would mean for the whole landscape and the wildlife it would seem I'd been directed to the right person. After he got his seasonal set up with some office work for the day, we hopped in his work truck which was really a relatably (to me at least) disheveled version of the inside of his office- scattered with the tools of the trade, random rocks, and other accoutrements -and headed towards a site he was managing for Eastern red cedar and bigtooth aspen. These species don't do well under the canopy of taller trees but are a valuable asset for a diverse forest, so this site had been cut to free up these trees and give them a real chance. A variety of species rely on Eastern red cedar, including Juniper hairstreak, a lovely little green butterfly. The female trees produce beautiful blue berries that attract cedar waxwings. 

When we arrived and walked out, we were walking through a landscape that might look a mess to the untrained eye. Most hikers and outdoorsman have a somewhat specific sanitized idea of what a healthy forest looks like and this probably wouldn't fit it... a scattering of tall trees with limited midstory and near breast high understory surrounding them. But this did have variety now, and was lacking it before. I'd been there before it was cut in fact, and remember seeing the grove of cedar Alex was seeking to save, trapped between taller mature trees. What now existed was and would for a while be different from what surrounded it. The seed bank that lives in the soil had gotten sun and all of this low growth came up, a whole host of different species than what had been represented before. Variety is key to ecological success, especially in a state with lots of developed land and an abundance of busy roads. The more different habitats available within an are, the more diverse and healthy it is. From birds to bugs to mammals, all benefit from varied habitats in close proximity. It still looked unnatural though, because it had to be logged to achieve the goals. I wanted to know what the progression would look like."It'll grow up, and you'll get to what we call the 'density dependent mortality'; you start to lose the losers for one reason or another- maybe its genetics, maybe its abiotic factors, biotic factors, whatever. Then you get the pole stand, small sapling stand and they'll start to reach up where they can." Pole is a timber classification; not yet sawtimber, no longer a sapling. "At that point the decision comes to burn, or do TSI or timber stand improvement, essentially selecting our favorites and trying to help them out. That'll happen in 20 years for these cedars. By that point their physiology should be strong enough to compete. Essentially the next step here won't be for another 15, 20 years?" This active management is so important to maintaining these species because it mimics what either would naturally have occurred in terms of disturbances- stand leveling storms or big fires -that shaped the diversity of plants and wildlife on the landscape, or mimics the land management carried out for centuries by the indigenous peoples. Because habitat is now fragmented, there's no guarantee that such events will occur in time naturally to keep some of these native species around. In order to keep some of them from disappearing from the landscape we have to come in and cut or burn things down selectively.  It may look messy, but it is oh so vital. In southern New England, old farmland and meadows are lost to forest progression, and with them will be species like the New England cottontail, smooth green snake, and indeed red cedar. "We want to have eight to ten percent of our forest in this early successional stage across all of Nehantic. Wind storms, fires... all of our forest is really predicated on that in Southern New England." 

Beech fits into all of this. "They provide that mid story that is very important to some birds," Alex told me. Not every tree branches in the same way. Some form a single trunk with branches coming off That same characteristic that made them fun to climb when I was a kid is key for species whose feeding or nesting habits evolved around the presence of that tree and others with heavy branching further down their trunks. Beech also make large groves of trunks from one root system. What looks like a bunch of different trees is really just one organism. The smaller sprouts in these groves produce both understory and midstory as they grow, and under the shade of the larger trunks they remain a lasting example of that habitat. At least they did, until a new nematode came along. We stood under a grove of beech that was looking quite sickly discussing how that nematode works. "The damage was done inside the bud, then when it leafs out it's all screwed up. If you see the microscope footage, the nematodes just cause physical damage tunneling all through the cell walls". This damage produces shriveled, misshapen, striped leaves that can't execute the processes they're meant to. It'd be like if something went to town and did a bunch of physical damage to your stomach and prevented you from being able to take in nutrients. Many beeches try to refoliate, but they aren't very good at it. "They don't even look like beech leaves." Sycamore, by contrast, refoliate every season in response to anthracnose, dropping their leaves and re-growing a new healthy batch. We don't know why beech can't do the same yet. That means trouble for a landscape scale problem, and it's unclear if there will be a good way to solve it. "There are plenty of beneficial nematodes," says Amendola. "Spreading some sort of nematicide would be comparable to something like DDT". DDT, dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane, is a synthetic insecticide commonly used to control mosquitoes. It had severe environmental impacts, most notably thinning the eggshells of raptors. Though banned many decades ago, DDT still shows up in FDA food tests and in all nearly all CDC human blood tests. 

Beech leaf disease has spread very rapidly. The range of beech is over 800,000 square miles in the Eastern United States. Beech leaf disease has spread to about 160,000 square miles since 2012, so it's gotten to about  one fifth of the distribution of the species in the country already. That's not including Eastern Canada, either. The tricky thing is, it was novel from the start. Research to understand the disease, what caused it, where it came from, and how it might be controlled has to be performed while the disease proliferates. Science takes time, and all the while, the disease is killing trees, damaging habitat, and creating thousands of dangerous snags that could fall and injure folks outdoors. Though there are obvious differences between chestnut blight and beech leaf disease, both are landscape scale problems. We have to hope that we could learn from the past and come out of this better than the chestnut blight, but we already blew it: the disease is here. That's the most dangerous step, and once that door is open its really, really hard to close. Alex drove me through Chatfield Hollow State Park, pointing out stands of birch that were so beaten down by the disease that they were already becoming a potential danger, not to mention opening up the brook to full summer sun and warming the water dramatically. 

If you see a beech tree that seems to be resistant to the disease, note it's location and see if it holds out, because discovering just a few resistant trees could be vital to weathering this storm. Stay apprised of BLD and other tree diseases and invasive species through the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station at https://portal.ct.gov/caes. Generations down the road, there may still be big, healthy beech standing in our forests, and maybe even American chestnut. If there are, it'll only be because people like David Bingham, Jack Swatt, and Alex Amendola cared enough to see something through to their own end despite the knowledge that the job wouldn't be over, and they'll never see the fruits of their labors. 

Thank you to my Patrons; Erin, David, John, Elizabeth, Brandon, Christopher, Shawn, Mike, Sara, Franky, Geof, Luke, Noah, Justin, Sean, Tom, Mark, Jake, Chris, Oliver, oddity on Display, Sammy, and Cris & Jennifer, Hunter, Gordon, Thomas, Trevor, Eric, Evan, Javier, Ryan, Dar, Eric, Truman, and Collin for making Connecticut Fly Angler possible. If you want to support this blog, look for the Patreon link at the top of the right side-bar in web version. 


Saturday, November 15, 2025

Yooper Wolves

 The hour or two I spent on the Two Hearted River was tantalizing, not satiating. The Lake Superior don't have the steelhead reputation that the other lakes do, but this river's reputation proceeds itself through the writings of Hemingway. I confess, though I have read The Old Man and The Sea and Big Two Hearted River, if Hemingway had never fished the Two Hearted and written about it I'm not sure it would have changed my opinion of it for the worse at all. I mostly mention it because that's how others know of it. The Two Hearted is a low gradient, winding, tannic river whose predominant year round salmonid is the native brook trout. The lake run rainbows reportedly average about six pounds here, though my first hand experience cannot corroborate that claim as I saw no evidence of any such fish in my time there, aside from a very small number of other anglers fishing for them. Spoons seemed to be the method of choice up there, which is a departure from the float-based or bottom bouncing approach I've seen in most other places I'd fished on the Great Lakes. There were also far fewer people here. By leaps and bounds, in fact. I made for five in total on a few hundred yards of water. This certainly owes to the remoteness of the location as much as anything. Michigan's Upper Peninsula is a sparsely populated place that reminds me of Northern Maine superficially. Resource extraction is the primary industries up here. Logging and mining lead the tables. Iron and copper both come from ground here. Later in the trip we'd meet a rock shop owner on the lower peninsula who's family were Yoopers, and she talked about inheriting large pieces of float copper that were found on her family's farm. Indirectly, it was the extraction industry the got me there. On November 10th, 1975, the jewel of the Great Lakes big iron boats, the Edmund Fitzgerald, sank during a monstrous storm. Losing big boats was not a particularly rare occurrence on the lakes up until that point, but none had quite the impact on popular culture that the Fitz did, and her end was a wakeup call that essentially ended a long string of lost vessels and crew. This November 10th was the 50th anniversary of the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald and that was why we were on the Upper Peninsula, and how I ended up stripping streamers in the languid, black runs at the very end of the Two Hearted River.


The river almost parallels the shore of Superior at it's lower end, though it would be hard to call such a winding path parallel to anything. The very last leg almost is straight before it juts sharply north and into the lake. Before that, though, her course is a very sinuous one through the stark landscape of dunes; all sand with scattered pines, many dead. The weather on November 10th 2025 was much, much better than the weather on the same date in 1975, but a stiff breeze out of the northeast made standing facing the lake a fairly unpleasant experience. It was easy enough to avoid that, thankfully, tucking in behind the dunes. Tolerable though it may have been, and as much water as I was able to cover without impedance, no chrome flashes lit up the darkly stained water. No grabs met my slowly pulled swings either. Hours spent casting were limited, though, and perhaps a future visit will go differently. There are other animals to encounter on the Upper Peninsula, though. One is certainly rarer but less out of place than the introduced rainbows. 

Across much of the Eastern half of country, wolves are a thing of the past. They eat our cattle and sometimes us, so settlers pushed them back hard. Though rumored sightings circle, the claimed last wolf in Connecticut was killed by Isreal Putnam in the town of Pomfret. Wolves held their grasp in Michigan longer. It wouldn't be until the 1910 that wolves would be beaten down from the Lower Peninsula. Even when they were gone there, the declining UP population was faced with bounties that remained instated until 1965¹. Though granted full protection not long after, it would take Wisconsin's population rebounding for animals to filter back onto the UP and repopulated. They've grown in number since, exceeding 762 in 2024 according to Michigan DNR. Isle Royale has the most significant density, but wolves are seen in other wild parts of the peninsula. 


As I've written about before, I adore large animals, predatory animals, and dangerous animals. Though I had no delusions of getting a chance to actually lay eyes on a wild wolf- they are very good at not being seen when they don't want to be -maybe, just maybe, I might be able to hear one. 

Being some sort of strange freak, I've spent countless hours standing in the woods in the dark listening to the sounds of wildlife. From endangered frogs to owls to coyotes, to even cryptids, I've put a lot of time in "with my ears on". A cackling pack of coyotes, barking fox, or overhead barred owl alarm call stopped fazing me years ago. Hours of annotated and carefully sorted sound recordings going back to when I was just 14 of woodland noise lace multiple hard drives. To say my comfort level in the dark is high would be an understatement. That, and my cursory understanding of topography, predator habits, seasonal prey movements, and modern satellite imagery gave me the confidence to go see if I might hear the wild wolves howl. I picked a spot where a wetland river corridor abutted rolling hills with hardwoods and patchy logging cuts. It was well out of town and closer to an area with reported sightings than some other decent looking habitat. Three of us- my partner Emily, our friend Ian, and myself -split from the group at our little cabin, hopped in the rental van, and went on a little adventure. 

The woods in southern New England don't feel wild at night. It's impossible to get away from anthropogenic noise or sound, so you always know you're near dense settlement and civilization. There's always a plane going by overhead and low enough to hear. Even in the most remote place in Connecticut, on a dry night you'll hear someone's broken muffler in the distance. Light from towns illuminates the bottom of the cloud deck and reflects everywhere. The only time you can really get away from that is during a heavy snow storm. But there, down a long dirt road and away from town, the Upper Peninsula had that feel... that silence. The air wasn't moving. We heard no car, no plane. Any crunch or scrape of gravel from our feet was deafening.  Those who appreciate such desolation seem automatically inclined to speak only in hushed tones. And that we did, remarking in amazement at just how silent it really was. I just hoped, maybe, that silence would be broken by a sound that has sent shivers down the backs of our species for millennia. 

It was almost funny how long it didn't take. The three of us were all whispering when something low and distant caught my attention and I made an abrupt "Shhh, SHHH!". Ian and Emily went silent, and we all heard them. They were far away, but it was hard for me to mistake what we were hearing. Those were not coyotes. There were only a few voices, no yips and barks... just long, low, mournful howls. I stood in awe for just a moment before being overtaken by the need to get closer. "Let's go, we can get closer to them", I urged, and we hopped back in the van. The howls had come from our north, so we followed the road that direction, up into the hardwood forest. We stopped again, and after a little while, heard another- this time apparently individual -caller. It seemed just as far off as the first howls. Once again, we hopped in the van and drove north. This time, our wolves wouldn't talk again. Instead, a single truck, tooling around the dirt roads on a joy ride, interrupted the silence and darkness. It made me realize just how load and obvious our vehicle certainly was, and how unlikely it was that we'd be able to gain ground on animals that had a vested interest in not being seen. We decided to call it a night, the echo of those distant howls still reverberating in my head, another voice that would surely call me back to this place some day down the road. 

¹ James H Hammill,  2013. "Wolf Recovery in Michigan" https://wolf.org/wolf-recovery-in-michigan/

Thank you to my Patrons; Erin, David, John, Elizabeth, Brandon, Christopher, Shawn, Mike, Sara, Franky, Geof, Luke, Noah, Justin, Sean, Tom, Mark, Jake, Chris, Oliver, oddity on Display, Sammy, and Cris & Jennifer, Hunter, Gordon, Thomas, Trevor, Eric, Evan, Javier, Ryan, Dar, Eric, and Truman for making Connecticut Fly Angler possible. If you want to support this blog, look for the Patreon link at the top of the right side-bar in web version. 

Sunday, September 14, 2025

Gotham Fish Tales & Fishing Culture

 Kevin, Rick and I plumbed the murky waters as Kevin's Maverick gently drifted the edge of a deeply dredged channel in the harbor in the shadow of industry- giant industrial oil storage tanks, wharfs, and smokestacks were the backdrop. This is the case for many places where rivers meet the ocean in the northeast. Though much disrupted and in many ways ecologically compromised, there are still fish in such places. Periodically around us a flipping menhaden disturbed the otherwise flat surface, and overhead ospreys whirled and periodically dove to catch them. Kevin and Rick were working flutter spoons this particular morning, and in a short time some arches began to appear on the sonar. Not long after that, they were doubled with slot sized striped bass. The iridescent flanks of a striper may seem a stark contrast against the unnatural surroundings, but fish and city harbors are entirely synonymous. I've fished urban settings for much of my life, and though I certainly love to get away from obvious signs of human disruption, there's also just something that appeals about catching fish where they seem to be thriving despite monumental human pressure. I've long enjoyed catching fish in the shadow of industry and intense population density, because it can sometimes give me a glimmer of hope... if they can live there, we can bring back so many things that have succumbed to human impacts. This is a modern American luxury in many ways, as in many cases the centers of industry in this country had long polluted the waters they were built on to a point of lifelessness, and without the clean water act and clean air act, among other pollution controls both state and federal, there likely wouldn't be much fishing to do in the Cuyahoga River, Newark Bay, or Providence River. In other parts of the world; developing, industrializing nations, there are places where one wouldn't want to fish, where dissolved oxygen is a rarity and human waste is not. I must admit that the fact that urban fishing is in any way productive or appealing is a fortune of my place, both in time and geographically. And that doesn't mean that people are still trying to eek ichtyes from waters in Delhi, Phnom Penh, and Nantong. 

Angler and guide Geoff Klane works an urban New England canal

New York is our country's most populous city, with around 8.48 million people. Depending where you look, it ranks somewhere from 28th to 11th in the world's most populous cities. I've long wanted to fish New York City. I've not made the effort yet, but I'd like to. One of the big reasons was a documentary I stumbled on some years ago called Gotham Fish Tales. Photojournalist Robert Maass started filming crabbers, shad netters, charter boats, and recreational anglers in the city in 1996, and released the film in 2003. It portrays a tiny and diverse subculture of the New York populous... those who fish the waters that ebb and flow around the most metropolitan of American metropili. This is a slice of fishing culture in the pre-social media age, and I think it's an especially important piece of media for any angler in the northeast to see and hopefully appreciate. The cast of characters it portrays is just classic, and Maass let's them carry the story. Only occasionally do you hear him at all, only asking a question from time to time. From recreational anglers casting snapper bluefish and schoolies in the notoriously Gowanas Canal to eel fisherman cleaving horseshoe crabs to bait pots, Gotham Fish Tales does a good job of highlighting fisheries that were both just picking up, as well as those that were dying. More than two decades later some of the places that Maass filmed fisherman aren't accessible anymore. Some may even have better fishing now than they did then. You can find Gotham Fish Tales on YouTube here: www.youtube.com. Also worthwhile, Joe Cermele interviewed Robert Maass on Cut & Retie: open.spotify.com

Though I'm generalkly more interested in ecology than in people and fishing culture, there is something to be said for preserving that history. People fish for all sorts of things in all sorts of places, in many different ways and for many different reasons. Whether or not I think those means and ends are ecologically sustainable or should even continue has no bearing on the cultural value of remembering and preserving all things fishing. We shouldn't fill buckets of flatfish anymore, but we also shouldn't forget that once upon a time, within plenty still living angler's memory, fisherman were doing that. I have a deep interest and respect for the history of angling and what it has to tell us about both fish and people. I worry that much of that history is going to fade away, and many fisherman don't know and don't care what it was like, even just twenty something years ago. 

Thank you to my Patrons; Erin, David, John, Elizabeth, Brandon, Christopher, Shawn, Mike, Sara, Franky, Geof, Luke, Noah, Justin, Sean, Tom, Mark, Jake, Chris, Oliver, oddity on Display, Sammy, and Cris & Jennifer, Hunter, Gordon, Thomas, Trevor, Eric, Evan, Javier, Ryan, Dar, Eric, and Truman for making Connecticut Fly Angler possible. If you want to support this blog, look for the Patreon link at the top of the right side-bar in web version. 


Thursday, July 24, 2025

17 Years

"What's up dog, want some coffee?" Levi whispered as I entered the kitchen, a little groggy but full of anticipation none-the less. "Morning, sure, thanks," I whispered back. "Hell yeah," he replied, "How stoked are you?"

"Pretty stoked."

When the cicadas last came to Central Pennsylvania, I was 11 years old. I'll be 45 when the come back next. That's a lot of time elapsed, and a lot changes. I hadn't yet picked up a fly rod in 2008, in 2042 who knows what life will be like. This year the bugs came again on their cycle and my silly addicted ass trucked it westward thrice, chasing a sickness so good it can't be beat. I've raved about the periodical cicadas before; in 2021 when I intercepted the periodicity in Maryland, and last year when a dual emergence took me to Illinois, Arkansas, Missouri, and Iowa. When magicicadas come out of the ground, I want to be there. They make up one of the last great biomass events of the sort here in the US, and while many were constant, like the buffalo, and some were annual migrations, like the passenger pigeon, there's something extra special and enchanting about an event that occurs more than a decade apart each time. It is miraculous that we still have these bugs at all, the landscape they live under is different every time the nymphs come up. That they still come up from one of the best regions for wild trout fishing East of the Mississippi... How lucky is that? Though, I suppose the same factors that have allowed the cicadas to persist have not been insignificant in providing habitat advantages for the wild trout either. 

Levi and I stepped out into the humid, warm morning air about ten minutes later with a little bit of our gear and a lot of hope for the day. "Hold on, before we go we gotta move the bugs", I said. We were staying at Levi's good friend's, Paul and Kathryn, and they were going to take down a tree in their backyard that day. It was time for a quick rescue mission. We walked over with our phone flashlights on to see dozens of pale, ghostly looking imagos and instars on the tree trunk and low branches. We collected as many as we could and moved them to nearby bushes. When periodical cicadas first emerge they come out of the ground through simple little holes, or sometimes, through turrets of soil that poke up above the ground, small towers of their own design that are made pre-emergence in wet areas in what is presumed to be a bid to keep mud and water from getting into their holes before the emerge. Those final instar nymphs climb out and go for the closest tree or bush, shed their nymphal shuck into imagos- the last, adult stage of their life cycle -and like many emerging insects, take a little while to harden up and get ready to go about their business. They'll go from pale and soft to firm, glistening, black and orange bugs, maintaining deep red eyes through the process. We shuttled as many as we could to safety before hopping in the car to head to the river. 


Central Pennsylvania holds fond memories for both Levi and I, though mine are more limited in number and a tad more recent. Levi fished trout in the limestone region the last time the cicadas came out in 2008, I first fished the area with my good friend Michael Carl in 2018. I've since returned a handful of times to poke into places I'd fished that first time, and a few new ones. Much of Pennsylvania is still Bucolic and beautiful, with sparse populations and varied terrain. Here, the Appalachians  form a series of arching, near parallel ridges. These start near Meyersdale, and you cross or cut through about a dozen spines headed East towards Chambersburg which sits in a wide lowland with rolling hills and the classic carts topography associated with limestone. East of Chambersburg is a less defined but similarly arching range of hills, encompassing Michaux State Forest and extending, broken by the Susquehanna, almost all the way to Reading. Throughout the main crux of the ridges to the west and north are smaller versions of the same sort of lowlands that Chambersburg and Carlisle sit in, each pocked with farmland and hugged on either side by tall ridges. In many of those low areas between the ridges is where the limestoners or limestone influenced creeks live, though each audaciously cuts through the ridges at some point on their journeys toward the Susquehanna, some more defiantly than others. The Little Juniata scrapes starkly through the ridge above Barree, Fishing Creek winds tightly under the steep topography on her way toward Lamar. And then Spring Creek, toward the apex of the curve of the ridges, gently wanders through a less strip of rock between Bellefonte and Milesburg. The millennia that allowed these streams to eat through these seemingly immovable stone ridges is too substantial for our simple human minds to fully grasp. It inspires aww though, when you stop and look at the landscape for a moment. 


Though not as diverse as the southern end of Appalachia, which boast the highest diversity of salamanders in the world and the largest of freshwater fish in the country, these Pennsylvania ridges aren't lacking in life. It's no surprise given that large swaths of this land are still very wild. Though logging has occurred for decades, as well as that farming down low and a slow hum of building in some towns, much of this place is still rugged. The terrain is gnarly and thick, and one can get lost if the try. This is the one of the last places in the country that still allows hunting of timber rattlesnakes, albeit in very limited and regulated form. Indeed they're quite stable here... still, I'd love to see this archaic hunt done away with. Why mess with one of the last best places this species has as a stronghold? Up on those high ridges though, we weren't hearing many cicadas. It was early though, as evidenced by the nymphs crawling out of the ground en masse that morning. We'd need to find an area where the bugs had already been out and flying for a while. Soil temperature has everything to do with emergence timing, and some places warm faster than others. We were committed though, and with windows open and ears trained to a familiar buzz, it didn't take long to find what we were looking for. 


"Mark says the shops the guys at the shop basically told him the fish aren't on them yet and not to waste his time fishing cicadas" Levi reported as we drove between spots. "Oh yeah, it's not worth it at all yet" I retorted snidely and we both laughed. We'd just had exactly the sort of fishing we'd driven over five hours for. Not size, albeit, but numbers? Whoa did we ever have that. And we'd had it to ourselves too, leap frogging up a piece of water neither of us had fished in years with not a soul in sight. Just brown trout sucking down big bugs without consequence... until our hooks pierced their lips. It was... absurd? Deranged? What dreams are made of? All of the above. When I fished Brood X in 2021, I got a modest taste of what trout fishing the periodicals could be, with a couple absurdly fat and happy wild brown trout. This was a more complete picture, as good as you hear it is. We traded remarks and shook our heads in disbelief each time we leap frogged, both reveling in the success of timing things well enough not only to have good fishing, but beat the masses. And, so long as the shops were still downplaying things, it felt like we had good chances to find pockets of stellar fishing throughout the trip. 



Where we were for that first pound-down wasn't a big fish location, but that didn't matter. Having trout come out of every riffle and pocket to hammer our big foam dry flies was thrilling. You can certainly work through similar water with similar flies- especially early in the morning and at times when some golden stoneflies or hoppers are present, or even if there's a modest number of annual cicadas -and pick up a few fish. This wasn't that. This was interacting with possibly as much as a quarter of the trout biomass of the stretch we fished and catching a disproportionate chunk of it. The fish were giddy. I had more than one nice fish (for this place that was 13-14") charge straight upstream a foot or more in fast shallow riffles to eat my fly. This was the dream. 

We were on our way to another spot on the same creek when we received that report from Mark, a stretch I'd fished before and done well with wild rainbows and some browns. The sound out the window as we closed in on our destination and the empty pull off when we got there said we were going to step in it again. 


The storied history of trout fishing in the area of State College is an interesting one, and though many eastern trout anglers may know bits and pieces of the story I think a lot of it has been glossed over. Spring Creek has one of the more distinct histories of course. Many may be aware that Spring Creek was a brook trout dominated fishery into the end of the 1800's, when introduced brown trout began to supplant the native char. By 1950 a native trout in Spring Creek's main stem was a rare occurrence. The origins of some of the rainbow trout that exist in the now mostly un-stocked stream remain a bit controversial, though I'd argue on behalf of some being stream born given the alkalinity, relative temperature stability, and shear perfectness of both par and adults of some specimens. of course, hatchery escapees from Benner Springs and Fisherman's Paradise, and stocked fish moving up from Bald Eagle creek contribute. Anyone who wants to can see the results of this in a tiny stretch right in Bellefonte, where you can pay a quarter or two for some pellets from a dispenser and toss them into a short, closed-to-fishing stretch where trout bigger than some of the carp present in the same spot will greedily take whatever you give them. Levi, Paul and I stood on the wall in Bellefonte one day, tossing leftover french fries and watching giant trout eat them. Those fish aren't Spring Creek's calling card though. If you've heard of the place but never been, your familiarity may start and end with the existence of the famed Fisherman's Paradise section. This piece of water was bought by the state Fish Commission in 1930 for construction of a hatchery and to demonstrate and test new stream improvement methods¹. A hatchery was built four years later. With heavy stocking and stream improvement that are now known in some cases to improve fishing more so that fishery health, the place soon boomed in popularity with anglers. The regulations then imposed ended up being quite unprecedented, and even in today's ecosystem might be though of as incredibly strict. Fishing was restricted to May through July, barbless flies were enforced, wading was prohibited, and there was a small and finite number of visits you could make. Even though some of the stricter regulations haven't carried over to present day, the popularity rivals the present day. More than 44,000 angler trips were registered in 1952. Photos from that era reflect this, with a parking lot jam full and anglers standing shoulder to shoulder on the banks of a Spring Creek that looks so different today it may as well be a different river entirely. 

In 1982, triggered by kepone and mirex contamination, the commission stopped stocking trout in Spring Creek and enforced no-harvest regulations. In turn, the wild trout population, brown trout specifically, absolutely exploded. It has been said that there have been as many as 3,000 trout per mile in Spring Creek, making it very high on (if not at the top) of the list of most densely trout populated streams in the Eastern United States. That population density has changed with time, of course, having apparently increased until 2000 and being on a downward trend since. That downward trend is likely tied to development in the watershed, and PFBC notes as much:

"In other watersheds, impervious surface area has been used as a good surrogate of urban development; when imperviousness reached 7-11%, trout populations were lost. The Spring Creek watershed had 12% impervious cover in 1995, and in the upper one-half of the watershed, impervious cover was 19%. We suggest that the reason Spring Creek is still able to sustain wild trout with this degree of urbanization is the relatively large input of groundwater into the stream. Further development that increases impervious cover, reduces groundwater recharge, or both, will certainly increase the stress on Spring Creek and reduce its ability to support wild trout."²

As development continues in the area around State College, and as climate change continues, its hard to say what the future holds for Spring Creek. What remains abundantly clear to me is that it, and even some of the more marginal trout streams in Central Pennsylvania, make even the best places we have in Connecticut look like a joke. Part of that is the nature of limestone, but part of it is an indictment on what building can do. Connecticut and our rapidly dying coldwater fisheries should be a good example of what NOT to do if you want to keep strong wild trout fisheries around when it comes to development, road salt use, lack of riparian protection, over-stocking, on and on and on. 


One thing Connecticut doesn't fail with is common carp. Europe's most popular "course" fish is highly abundant in the state and isn't going anywhere. Recently, after a number of fish had been caught over the years that could have cracked the former record, someone finally clocked one over fifty pounds. Well over, in fact. At over 58 pounds, Norbert Samok's record fish is a significant achievement. Of course, Pennsylvania has carp too. The state record was caught in 1962 by an angler named George Brown. The fish weighed 52 pounds... ha! We've got you beat there, PA. I can't gloat too much though, because instead of getting the chance to fish periodical cicada eating carp, I can't really wait around in Connecticut. It turned out Pennsylvania was going to give me a challenge too, though. 

Levi and I met Mark Hoffman in Boalsburg on our second morning for our first serving of warm water cicada mania. Haze clung to the hills as the light came up, that sort of low morning humidity that suggested a very hot day was incoming. We hopped in with Mark and headed toward a place where carp, overhanging trees, deep lake shore, and periodical cicadas all overlapped. Surface disturbance was visible as we crossed a bridge over the lake on the way in. There was heavy calling as we pulled into the launch. Anticipation was high, especially for me. I know this game a little bit, I've caught some carp on cicadas. But something was going on at the ramp that put a more than slight kink in the plan. The back cove was all muddy, and in various spots on both the near and far side there was a ruckus going on. Splashing, crashing, tail slapping, jumping... these carp were busy humping, not eating cicadas. The thing with the carp spawn is that it can kind of happen any time the water gets warm. I've seen carp spawn as early as April 10th and as late as September 3rd. Sometimes that's just a few pods of fish and plenty are still happily and busily feeding away. This wasn't that, though. We motored all over the lake and for the most part found nothing but carp making more carp. It got hotter and hotter as the day went on, and though I picked up some largemouth on cicada patterns and Levi ran a little chartreuse bugger and put a smackdown on white crappie, this wasn't what we hoped for. 


As the heat became more and more oppressive, frustration boiled over. We bailed, sweaty and ready for lunch. It wouldn't be for a couple days, right as our trip came to an end in fact, that we got a shot at the carp again. We met Mark at the same launch, just hours to spare before we needed to hit the road. This time there was no thrashing and crashing on that far bank. The carp should be feeding now, of that I was fairly confident. The most confident, in fact, as the previous attempt had shaken Levi's. In fact it had taken a bit to convince him that this could be worthwhile. We motored out of the launch and rounded the corner, travelling down the shoreline where cicadas were calling their little tymbals off. It wasn't long before I saw it: a carp tipped the wrong way, with it's head up and its tail down, orange lips at the surface, sucking down one of the bugs that had so haplessly bumbled onto the lake surface. The were here....

They weren't easy though, and we weren't the only ones on the water. A few other boats were out with fly rods, all working the banks looking for targets. Any pressure can complicate things, especially with carp. These are sensitive, shy fish. Before we found a couple willing carps, Levi managed to catch one of the nicer largemouth bass I've seen in a while. Getting big bucketmouths on cicadas isn't a bummer at all. 


Largemouth bass are America's favorite gamefish. An estimated 16 billion dollars a year is spent on bass fishing. To put that in perspective, the estimated annual market for fly fishing in the US is 750 million dollars. The people love bass, enough so that they've been moved here and there and everywhere. Where we were, just one watershed divide separated us from the native range of the northern bass, but we were fishing to non-native fish where we were. Given their widespread introduction and infusion in the fishing culture, many anglers don't realize when bass aren't native where they fish. In Connecticut, neither smallmouth nor largemouth bass were present historically, and that information is relatively available to anyone who cares to look. That said, it isn't hard at all to find anglers who insist that they are a native fish. Aa great many angler believe a great many things to be true that just aren't though, that is a reality that no longer surprises me. I just roll my eyes with my lips pursed in a tight, straight line and repeat the same statements again-- "actually, the only larger native freshwater predator species in Connecticut were chain pickerel, brown bullhead, and brook trout...." It's remarkable how much of our fisheries are made up of introduced species. In much of the northeast, we're looking at as much as, even more half of the popular target species. Even somewhere like Maine, where landlocked salmon and lake trout did exist naturally, they've been scattered about in all sorts of places they never were before. We think of fishing as a way to be in nature, failing frequently to realize that what we fish isn't actually natural. 

Even the lake we were on wasn't natural. In fact, large natural lakes are essentially non-existent in Pennsylvania. The largest natural lake in the state is Conneaut, in Crawford County. At just 243 acres, it is a piddly body of water compared to the Pymatuning Reservoir just miles away, and even it wasn't immune to human alteration. In 1834 connection to the French Creek canal raised the lake by 11 feet. The geology in Pennsylvania just doesn't make big lakes, unless you count Erie, of course. I wonder how the fishing was in the river that made this reservoir we were fishing before the dam went up, and I wondered how many more cicadas there'd been before the land they lived under was flooded. What fish would I have caught here in 1685, just 20 emergence cycles ago. Would I have been catching 20 inch fallfish here? Giant brook trout? How many billions more cicadas must there have been?

What was is now gone, and there's little left to do but find a carp, put a piece of foam in front of it, and not set the hook too early. 





¹ Tom Burrell, The Express. Dec 14 2024 The Evolution of Fisherman's Paradise

² Carline, R. F., R. L. Dunlap, J. E. Detar, and B. A. Hollender. 2011. The fishery of Spring Creek – a watershed under siege. Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission, Technical Report Number 1, Harrisburg, PA.

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